Chapter 8 - The Kimberley, Including Broome

Day 53 - Saturday 13 July – Eighty Mile Beach                 Previous Chapter

We departed Pardoo Station at 7:35 am and the Pilbara region soon after. We were now in the Kimberley.

We drove the 15 km of gravel/ corrugated road to the highway. We turned left/east and soon hit a strong headwind.  Lucky for us we only had 130 km of highway before we turned left/north in to Eighty Mile Beach. The nine km of dirt road was ordinary, but it was only nine km.
We arrived at the Eighty Mile Beach Caravan Park around 10am and were soon on our site and were soon to find out that David & Bev had serious caravan problems, serious enough to erect a tent.

David & Bev & Tent

After some lunch and Wright-support we went for a walk on the beach. Australia has some very very good beaches. Eighty Mile Beach is up there among the best. Eighty Mile Beach stretches for 140 miles. I am not sure how that works.

Eighty Mile Beach

The caravan park has a musically orientated market from 2pm to 4pm, so we made scones and gathered around to listen. It was very pleasant.



Scone O’Clock



Around this time I met up with Trudy, the other half of David, who are members of my bowls club back home. Very nice people. Later, after scones, I caught up with David and Trudy in their caravan. They returned to our caravan for our happy hour.

Soon chatting became an extended happy hour. It happened to work out that the new David had (some years ago) sold a car to Wrighty – so they knew each other. Small world. To cap off the “small world” story I met a guy who worked for my sister and brother-in-law in Colac (Victoria) some 15 years ago.

The strong wind dropped for happy hour and dinner, bur returned later in the night.

Dinner was a pleasant BBQ, as the very warm day dropped to a lovely cool evening. The noise from the seven kids in the two caravans behind us soon dropped to a low level. They were nice people.

It was a short drive today of 147 km.

Day 54 - Sunday 14 July – Eighty Mile Beach

I was on the beach at 6:35 am to rekindle memories of 2011. Although the wind was strong and the wet sand was freezing the sunrise was worth the effort. I had the beach sunrise to myself, apart from a few gulls.

It was a day for R&R and beach walks.

Around 2pm we experienced, what we believe to be, an earthquake. I was in the caravan and it shook. I stepped outside and the ground shook under my feet. It probably lasted for one minute, and was a strange feeling. We found out later that it apparently was measured at 6.6, and its epicentre was maybe not much more than 100 km from us.

I later realised that the caravan had been moved about two inches forward.



Headlines in Perth Newspaper

Soon after we went for a drive on the beach, which is hard enough to drive without letting air out of the tyres. We spotted a Pied Oystercatcher bird on a nest and (when she went for a walk) we were able to get a photo of the eggs.

Pied Oystercatcher & Eggs  



 

A short time later we spotted a Sooty Oystercatcher on another nest.

Sooty Oystercatcher on Eggs 

We purchased a “Sunday Roast Lamb” at the caravan park for dinner for $22, including dessert. It was excellent.  I had to duck out before the main course to take a sunset photo.

It was a great evening.

Day 55 - Monday 15 July – Barn Hill Station Beach Camp

There was another tremor as we were getting ready to leave, but much smaller than the tremor yesterday. However we departed Eighty Mile Beach about 7:40 am, just the Couch and Kelly folks. The others were staying for an extra day and travelling directly to Broome. We soon realised that the strong head and cross wind were still around.

We stopped for coffee along the track and arrived at Barn Hill Station Beach Camp about 11:30 and set up camp under some lovey trees. We had nine km of red dirt road to reach our destination.

Shirley Opening a Gate on Barn Hill's Red Dirt Road (One of Three)

After lunch we went for a walk on the beach.

Beach at Barn Hill

We then decided that we deserved a milkshake, so that was what we had. The view was very good as well.

 

Ocean Behind the Milk-shake

The menu for dinner was quickly sorted, being curried sausages and damper. It was a joint effort. I made the damper at Barn Hill while Wrighty made the damper at Eighty Mile Beach. It was David’s first damper and all diners apparently came away unscathed. Well done Wrighty.

Wrighty's First Damper

We just caught the sunset.

Sunset at Barn Hill

I finished the day in the shower that has no roof. It was interesting having a shower by the light of the moon.

Day 56 - Tuesday 16 July – Barn Hill Station Beach Camp

It was a cool and slow start to the day and that was fine. I started the day in the same shower, this time the light was provided by the sun.

View Above the "Roofless Throne"

After some relaxation the four of us went for a long walk on the beach. It is very hard to find new superlatives all the time, but the beach scenery was magnificent. High red cliffs. Superbly coloured rocks on the cliffs, on the beach and in the water. To cap it off we had the beautiful deep blue of the ocean.

Above & Below: Barn Hill Rocks and Beach

It was time for more relaxation.

The View from our Caravan

The camp even has a synthetic bowling green and some keen competition on a regular basis.



Synthetic Bowling Green

Happy hour was a quiet affair before chicken and chops on the BBQ for dinner.

We have enjoyed our time along the coast with two nights each at Pardoo Station, Eighty Mile Beach and Barn Hill. The latter two places were particularly special and maybe we could have stayed longer.

 For those of you who are interested:

1.  My camera has died. I await the arrival of Fay in Broome with a new one (birthday present from Shirley).
2. My phone had a Senior's moment and lost all and everything - contacts - the lot. Luckily I could rebuild it before:
3. My laptop computer also had a Senior's moment and refused to get out of bed today. I need a PC doctor in Broome.
 
Apart from all that we are very well and having a hell of a great time. This part of the world is hot, dry, dusty and bloody magnificent. The coastline, beaches and water are breathtaking.

Day 57 - Wednesday 17 July – Broome

Today was a huge day. We departed the Barn Hill camp around 7:35 am and ventured across the 9 km of red dirt road. Shirley managed the gates again.

We were in Broome 132 km and just short of two hours later. We had our camp set up by 10:35 and I was on the road to the airport soon after. I purchased chooks, rolls and tomatoes for lunch before I met Fay and Jim.

Fay presented me with my new camera, and my smile widened appreciably.

We had lunch, got Fay & Jim established in their cabins and went shopping for food and liquid. We had time for coffee before we headed off for a "Bucket List" event.

Stairway to the Moon is a special event in this part of the world - for about three evenings each month - for about 30 minutes per evening.

I submit some of the first photos from my new camera.

A Small Sector of the People Watching Stairway to the Moon

Stairway to the Moon

The Moon Via My New Camera

The ten of us were there. Some had dinner from the food at the market. Most of us dined when we got home. Wine was involved.

The following image is our route to date.

58 Days from Home

Day 58 - Thursday 18 July – Broome

It was a slow start to the day for four of us. The other four headed off to Horizontal Waterfalls - a great experience.

Two cars went for a service, with the other two booked in for tomorrow. I walked the 2.5 km back from the service place. After the car was serviced I treated it to a long-overdue carwash. Much red dirt was removed.

After lunch Shirley and Fay went window shopping while Jim and I checked out Captain Murphy's Irish pub. We had to stay there until the ladies came and picked us up. The four of us had a great time.

Jim and Chris at Captain Murphy's Irish Pub

We enjoyed a couple of notices that had been observed during the day.

 

Happy hour came and went, as did a BBQ tray of lovely lamb chops.

Day 59 - Friday 19 July – Broome

Shirley started the day with a relaxing coffee with a great mate from home. She was here visiting her daughter who is temporarily residing in Broome. I took a photo of our camp site.



Our Broome Camp Site

Other maintenance issues happened or were considered. Shopping happened. Planning for Kay's birthday tomorrow occurred - she made vanilla slices.

After lunch Fay, Shirley, Jim and I went for a drive. We drove on to Cable Beach in two places and moved on.

Cable Beach

Our next stop was Gantheaume Point, where we again drive on to Cable Beach.

Cable Beach from Gantheaume Point


The Port also seemed a very popular place, and it had some great rock formations.

Rock Formation at the Broome Port

We soon arrived at Matso's Brewery, bought a drink, then visited the adjacent Sobrane art gallery. Some of her work was impressive. Ernie Dingo had just bought one item for $4500.

Broome Street Art

 

We enjoyed a couple of drinks at Matso's then headed back to camp to join the others. There was a small expedition to revisit the "Stairway to the Moon" while the rest of us chilled out and prepared dinner.
Six of us had chicken and salad, while the others enjoyed pasta.

Day 59 became the first time that our TV has been turned on for the entire trip, and that was because Shirley wanted to watch the Tour de France. However it was only on for five minutes as she is not interested in the time trail.

 

Day 60 - Saturday 20 July – Broome - Kay's Birthday

 

The day started dreary with a heavy fog. However by the time the washing was on the line it had started to lift.



The Sun Trying to Pierce the Fog

At 10 am we all gathered to celebrate Kay's birthday, complete with home made vanilla slices, home cooked chocolate cake and chocolate teddy bears. Kay scored cards and presents. Darryl also provided the flowers.



Lovely Birthday Eats

Birthday Girl with Cake and (little) Bubbly

Morning tea broke up around 11am with some going for a drive and some having quiet R&R.

It was a quiet day until early evening, when we piled in to two cars and drove to Divers Tavern (near Cable Beach) for Kay's birthday dinner. Humidity was at 95% as the heavy fog rolled in. It was a great venue with excellent food.



The Gang at Kay's Birthday Dinner

We headed home for a night-cap, as the fog started to come back in. It made for an interesting view of the moon.





I think Kay had a good birthday.
 
Day 61 - Sunday 21 July – Broome

 

Sunday is market day, so that is what we did. After breakfast Shirley, Fay and I went to the market. It was OK, but all that we bought were three mango smoothies - and they were excellent.

After that we took a photo of some street art.

We were then suitably motivated to revisit Sobrane Gallery and again chat to the artist herself - Sobrane. She was a very interesting person. Shirley and I could not agree on the spending of money so we departed and went for a drive.

We stopped and took photos of two Sobrane paintings. National security considerations prevent me from advising where these photos were taken.

After lunch we caught the bus to our afternoon "Snubfin Dolphin" ocean cruise. On the way to the boat our bus driver explained the "Mother In Law" (or Jigal) tree, so called because the two side-by-side leaves face away from each other. Hmmmm.

"Mother In Law" (or Jigal) tree

The following photos tell the story of our enjoyable cruise.

Novel Boat that took us to our Cruise Vessel

I was the first person to spot a whale but we were unable to get very close before it dived.

Friends on Cruise

Manta Ray

The following are photos of Snubfin Dolphins - the main point of the cruise. This is a species of dolphin that has only been recognised since 2005.

 

Above & Below: The Snubfin Dolphin
[Swimming right to left]

 

More Friends

Yet More

The cruise arrived back at the Guantheaume Point end of Cable Beach as the sun was setting.

Sunset as we cruised on to Cable Beach



It was interesting to note that you are permitted to light a fire on Cable Beach. Thoughts of scones entered our heads.

Our bus took us back to camp where all parties did their thing for dinner.  Our choice was pork chops and vegies. Our dinner was interrupted as my chair collapsed and I fell to the underlying concrete slab. Broken glass and spilt red wine and sore knee was the result. Tune in tomorrow to get an update.

The fall did NOT ruin my day, although I was disappointed about the broken glass and spilled wine.


Day 62 - Monday 22 July – Broome

Monday was scone day. Chris and David were the cooks. For the first time we had three types of scone - plain, date and savoury (cheese, sun-dried tomatoes, garlic and herbs).

It was a pleasant morning tea.

Left: Plain and Date Scones
Right: Savoury Scones

The Gang Enjoying Morning Tea & Scones

After morning tea some of the gang went for a drive, and some did odd jobs.

Around mid afternoon we drove to Cable Beach, parked on the beach, and took photos of the iconic camel tours.

 

Above & Below: Camel Tours 

 

Beach Lovers

Our Happy Hour consisted of beer, bubbly, red and white and continued in to dinner of BBQ chicken, with Pepperjack Shiraz. It was a good night.

Day 63 - Tuesday 23 July – Broome

Tuesday was out last day in Broome for the group of 10. It was also a day for jobs and shopping.

It was also the day that I got the news that my PC had gone up in smoke.

 

Bye Bye PC

However, after the smoke cleared, the sun returned and we got on with our lives - on another PC.

We went for a drive to parts "beach" and "water", and did not get far as the tide was in and there was little amount of beach to explore. 

However I did manage to get some photos of Osprey and their homes and family - thanks to the zoom on my new camera. The second photo was on a lighthouse (cyclone resistant) tower.

Osprey Nest 1 & Baby

Parent above Osprey Nest 2

Lighthouse Tower with Osprey Nest 2 and Chick

I took a photo of Cable Beach from afar and the many boats that were moored off that beach.

We returned to camp where three couples (out of four) were getting ready for a venture north tomorrow - to Cape Leveque. Happy hour was another very happy event. Shirley produced an excellent spaghetti bolognaise for dinner. It was accompanied by a great sour dough bread and a bottle of red.

 

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This post was last updated around 9 pm on Tuesday 23rd July 2019