Chapter 10 - The Kimberley Beyond Broome

Day 71 - Wednesday 31 July – Beyond Broome            Previous  Chapter

The start of our 11th week started with our departure from Broome.

Shirley and I left the caravan park about 8am and turned left instead of right – to the car wash. $11 turned the red caravan back to near its intended colour. Then we headed east.

It was 29 degrees at 9am and getting hotter. We were surprised by the improvement in land (feed) quality, and the number of cattle.

A small wallaby tried to commit suicide-by-car – but catastrophe was avoided.

There were many boab trees along the road, and I took a couple of photos.

Road East of Broome, with Boab Tree

Magnificent Boab Tree. Note its size in relation to Shirley

We soon started to see typical Kimberley images.

Typical Kimberley

Around (late) lunch time we stopped at Ellendale free-camp site and positioned the two caravans so that the awnings gave a combined respite from the sun. Any breeze was appreciated.  We are about 80 km west of Fitzroy Crossing and about 305 km east of Broome.

Two Galaxy Vans Joined as One

My phone says that it is 34 degrees as I sit under the awning to update the blog. Darryl reminded me that the beer is cold - but it is too early at 3pm.

At 4:45 we gave in and had chilled drinks. Before dinner we took a sunset photo.

Ellendale Sunset

At 6 pm, as it got dark, we cooked our BBQ meat and dined under the spreading stars. We chatted until 8:30, then retired to read, update blogs and relax.

Day 72 - Thursday 1 August – Beyond Fitzroy Crossing

As it was a balmy night we had all windows open and most of the curtains. As a result the rising sun came through the front window and had us up early. We were on the road by 7:20 am and in Fitzroy Crossing by 8am. We refuelled and headed east.

Within minutes we had a huge cross wind that forced Darryl and I to drop to a lower gear for maybe 120 km. It was probably the toughest 120 km of caravan towing I have ever done.

We stopped a couple of times and took some Kimberley photos.

Typical Kimberley

We were amused at the varying sizes of the termite mounds.

Termite Mounds

Our pain was over by 11 am as we pulled in to a free camp site, between Fitzroy Crossing and Hall’s Creek, called Mary Pool. We camped under some shady trees and rested.

Mary Pool Camp Site

After lunch I went for a walk to the nearly dry Mary river and took a few photos. 

Australasian Darter

The afternoon was a relaxing affair, although the constant wind was a pain.

Shirley and I went for a walk and I took a couple of photos.

Another View of Our Camp

Willy Wag Tail

Mary River

We dined on chicken-on-sticks and fried rice.

Day 73 - Friday 2 August – Hall's Creek

We departed Mary Pool about 8 am and headed east.  Soon after I was able to take some photos of my favourite Aussie Bird of Prey - the Wedge Tailed Eagle.  I hope you like them.

He was a magnificent creature.

The terrible wind we had yesterday was worse today. Luckily we only had 108 km to go to Hall's Creek, most of it in third gear.

We soon arrived at Hall's Creek and visited the Visitors Centre. We all had a coffee, which were all sent back because they were virtually cold. However I had a smile at the sign on the wall.

We checked in to the caravan park and went touring. Our first stop was a reef of quartz called the Wall of China - for obvious reasons.

Above & Below: Wall of China 

We spotted a skink, maybe 200 mm long - tip to tip.

Next we visited Caroline's Pool, which is down to a puddle. We were also impressed with the artwork on the toilet.

Caroline's Pool

Impressive Artwork in the Middle of Nowhere

 Third on the list was "Old Halls Creek", the original location of the town.

Sign Made from a Car Bonnet

Location of First Payable Gold in WA

We were sick of rough dirt roads so we returned to the current Hall's Creek and admired the local artwork. The feature of Hall's Creek is the amount of artwork on car bonnets.

Car Bonnet Artwork

Other Artwork

I took a photo of Russian Jack (nick name) who became famous for using a makeshift wheelbarrow to move a prospecting mate around 300 km to get medical care.

Memorial to Ivan Fredericks (aka Russian Jack)

We returned to the camp where some car and caravan re-organisation occurred so that we were ready for an overnight venture (with tent) into the Bungle Bungles tomorrow.

The temperature dropped enough to force us to cook and dine in-doors.

Days 74 & 75 – Weekend of 3 & 4 August – Bungle Bungles (or Purnululu)

Shirley and I have just spent an amazing two days in an amazing part of Australia. We travelled over 202 km of rough/stony/corrugated/twisting/4WD road where it was hard to exceed 40 km. We bypassed the comfort of our caravan and camped in a three-person tent. I took heaps of photos. Some of them are included in this blog.

WE WERE IN OUR FAVOURITE “ROCKY” PART OF AUSTRALIA – THE BUNGLE BUNGLES, OR PURNULULU NATIONAL PARK. We loved it in 2011. We loved it in 2019.

We left Hall’s Creek at 8am yesterday and arrived at the Bungle Bungles Caravan Park around 9:30. We organised the caravan on power, had a coffee, and reduced the tyre pressure. We left at 10:15 and drove the 50 km to the Purnululu Visitors Centre in 80 minutes. It was an extra 27 km to Echidna Chasm. 
What can I say? Magnificent. Check out the photos.

Entrance to Echidna Chasm

 

Shirley in Echidna Chasm

 

We had lunch and took photos at Osmond Lookout.

View from Osmond Lookout

We then did an aboriginal food walk. Did you know that:
- When the Silver Box tree flowers, the tree produces lots of sugary leaves.
- When heated and mixed with kangaroo dung Spinifex grass makes a great glue.
- Northern Sandalwood leaves are great for colds and flu.
- Leaves from river red gum trees, when used as stuffing inside a kangaroo, keep the cooked meat moist.
- The same leaves are poisonous to fish, so can be used to catch fish.
- Black speargrass has similar sugary features as sugar cane.

We tried to take photos of a Double-barred finch and a Kingfisher, and failed.

Our camp site at Kurrojong camp area was researched, found and established. The tent was erected, the lilos were inflated, and the beds were made. The Kings awning was put out for weather protection. We rested.

Kelly Camp in the Bungle Bungles

We checked out Kungkalanayi Lookout for the sunset and took a couple of photos.

View from Kungkalanayi Lookout at sunset

BBQ snags, spuds, corn and tomatoes was dinner – on our butane burner BBQ plate.
 
Miners torches helped for blog notes, sudoku and reading. It was balmy, quiet and windless. The park occupation was so sparse that we had our own toilet.

Bed beckoned at 7:15 pm. Shirley read by torchlight and I pretended that I could sleep. Over the next 12 hours we managed an adequate amount of sleep. At 3am there was no artificial light, no moon, and the stars were as good as we have ever seen.

I rose at 5:55 to get the 6:01 sunrise.

Early Bird

It was a waste of time but it got Shirley going by 6:30. We breakfasted outside without jumper at 7:15.

Around 8:15 we headed to Piccaninny. Around 8:45 we found out that Kay and Darryl were driving in for the day – a big effort.

We took a photo of Elephant Rock and moved on.

Elephant Rock

A coffee happened at  Piccaninny before we embarked on the “Domes” walk, a very impressive part of the Bungles.

Some of the Domes



Cavern on Domes Walk - Note Shirley in the Photo

Then followed “Cathedral Gorge” walk. It is magnificent. The acoustics are so good vocal recordings have been made there.

Cathedral Gorge (Shirley there again)

Cathedral Gorge (Without Shirley)

Somewhere along that track we caught up with Kay and Darryl.

The stroll to Piccaninny Creek Lookout started to take it's toll and we were happy to head back to the car at Piccaninny.

Shirley admiring the view at Piccaninny Creek Lookout

All of the walks today were quite poignant as most of the places we visited featured in the 2009 Qantas ad featuring the song “I still call Australia Home”. Check out the ad on YouTube and compare my photos.



Above & Below: Piccaninny Creek (as seen on the Qantas Ad)



On the way home we stopped at the Visitors Centre and were able to take a photo of the Double-barred finch and a Honeyeater. I could fit 2 or 3 of the finches in to my hand.



Honeyeater

Double-barred finch 

We were happy to get back to camp, unpack, shower and relax. I cooked sausages n onion gravy n mash for dinner.

Life is OK.

Day 76 – Monday 5 August – Kununurra

Shirley had a gleam in her eye as we moved, within the region of big rocks, to the town of little rocks – diamonds – Kununurra. She was remembering her birthday voucher.

We left the Bungle Bungles Caravan park at 8am, after taking a photo of an old Vauxhall and caravan.

 Old Vauxhall and caravan

We drove around 250 km though some of the most scenic landscapes that we have seen for a long time (notwithstanding the Bungle Bungles).

We arrived around 11:30 after having to stop to cook some apples – to appease the fruit fly restrictions. 

While setting up camp I realised that the caravan hand brake cable had come adrift. Further examination showed that the problem was caused by a broken weld on the caravan springs – where it is attached to the chassis.

The car got a wash, as did the caravan, as did the car, as did a lot of clothes. Most things were not dirty – just dusty.

A drive around town occurred. Happy hour drifted in to a BBQ dinner.

Day 77 - Tuesday 6th August - Kununurra

The day started sunny and warm, and with a BBQ breakfast. 

We caught up with Wendy and Crippsy, who are also in Kununurra, at the Hoochery. On the way I took a photo of the healthy cotton crop. This area is a great food bowl with plenty of healthy crops, vegies and fruit.

Cotton

After that we stopped at the Sandalwood outlet, another amazing local business. We bought a piece of wood.

Some shopping was followed by lunch, then a rest, then a dip in the pool.

Darryl cooked self-caught fish wings, I cooked the chips, and we dined like kings.

By the way, if you just want to look at the photos click on any photo and you should be presented with a selection of photos across the bottom of the screen. Then just look at the desired pictures.

Day 78 - Wednesday 7th August - Kununurra

Shirley and I were up early so that we could pack up the caravan and take it to the repair shop - to fix a broken weld and the broken hand-brake cable. It was delivered about 7:50 am.

Not much happened for the rest of the morning, except for Shirley dying Kay's hair.

[photo not permitted]

We had a cool off in the pool before heading to the Café at the Sandalwood factory. It was a lovely light lunch.

After lunch we picked up our caravan, with a new hand-brake cable and two replaced spring hangers (one broken, one in doubt).

Left: Before                 Right: After

If you are in Kununurra and have a metal issue contact Gary at Argyle Engineering. He did a great job.

I drove Shirley to the hairdresser then stocked up on the essentials of life - diesel and beer. On the way I took a photo of the Kununurra lake. It is quite a pretty spot.

Kununurra Lake

We decided that we did not need a big dinner (after our excellent lunch), so I cooked an apple pie from apples that needed to be cooked before we arrived in Kununurra. Darryl bought the ice-cream.




Caravan-cooked Apple Pie & (Bought) Ice-cream

It was not a late night, but it was definitely very warm.

Day 79 - Thursday 8th August - Kununurra & Lake Argyle

Kay, Darryl, Shirley and I drove the 72 km out to Lake Argyle, the second biggest man-made lake in Australia. We arrived at 9am, had a coffee and watched a 1975 video of the dam construction - from 1969 to 1973.  It was an amazing exercise.

We had a 2 km bus ride to our boat and on we went.

Our first sight was a Kite nest with the resident in residence.

Kite & Nest

Then we were amazed at how small the dam wall was compared to the body of water.

Dam Wall from the Lake Side

Lake Argyle has:
- Water equivalent to 19 Sydney Harbours,
- 250,000 litres of evaporation PER SECOND,
- 950 km of coast line,
- 1000 square km of area,
- hydro electricity generators.

It supports 15,000 hectares of farming, and has the largest fresh water crocodiles in Australia. We stopped to take a photo of a few crocs.

Fresh Water Croc

We then stopped to feed the fish and take more photos.

Lake Argyle has enough fish to support commercial fishing. An attempt at barramundi farming ultimately failed as the market did not like fresh water barra, when compared to the wild/sea variety. However there are still plenty of big barra in the lake.

Our next stop was to observe some rock wallabies.

Rock Wallabies

The views throughout the voyage were postcard type images.

We stopped for lunch and had a great meal that included BBQ Silver Cobbler.

BBQ Silver Cobbler

The views were still great.

Eventually the cruise ended and we were back on the bus, and were able to get a glimpse of the down-river view.

Ord River down stream from the dam wall

We drove back to Kununurra and did some last minute shopping before our departure tomorrow.

As we had a large lunch we skipped the main meal of dinner and swapped from pre-dinner nibbles to left-over apple pie and ice-cream.

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It was last updated around 8 pm on Thursday 8th August 2019