Thursday, 13 June 2019

Chapter 4 - The Pilbara

Day 23 - Thursday 13 June – Newman                 Go to previous chapter

It was a slow start to a sunny day.  Around 10am, with shorts on, Shirley and I headed in to Newman.  We started at the monument to Stan & Ella Hilditch, the people who found iron ore in Newman.


Stan & Ella Hilditch
We then studied the haul truck which can carry 129 cubic metres of iron ore. It is 6.4 m high and 12.7 m long. Its tyres have a diameter of 3.7 metres. The tyres last about 12 months - one year.

Shirley looking at the haul truck

Chris dwarfed by the haul truck
We then went to Radio Hill lookout and took a panoramic photo of Newman.

Newman from Radio Hill lookout
The Arts Centre was our next stop where we viewed lots of indigenous art.

Woolworths was our next stop, to stock up for the next 3 or 4 days.

We had a relaxing afternoon and a joint BBQ dinner.

Day 2 - Friday 14 June – Karijini National Park

We departed Newman around 8 am and headed north, further into the Pilbara.

It was not long before the flat plains were replaced by rolling hills composing mainly of iron ore. We drove for about 200 km and passed through many different landscapes. It was a much prettier drive than seen in recent times.




Although we climbed many hills and weaved through many passes, the drive was an easy and pleasant task.


We entered Karijini National Park and arrived at Dales Gorge campground around 11:30. Karijini NP is 627,441 hectares.

Very soon camp was established, and we had lunch. Bushfires some three years ago had severely diminished the former beauty of the camp area. Iron ore rocks and red dirt was the main feature, apart from the blackened trees.
Kelly Site at Karijini NP

A while later Shirley, Kay, Darryl and I drove the short distance to Dales Gorge, and descended 240 or so steps to the bottom of the gorge. The sights before us were superb.

Dales Gorge (above & below)
 


They even improved when we walked a few hundred metres to Fern Pool – a lovely spot for swimming.

Fern Pool
The four of us returned to the bottom of the steps and parted company. Kay and Darryl took my car keys and the 240 steps to the top. Shirley and I took the “Level 4” (i.e. reasonably hard) path along the bottom of the gorge to the other end – and Circular Pool.
Bottom of Dales (above & below)
 


The beauty of the walk and Circular Pool is hard to put into words and does not get justice from my photos – although I tried.  It was one of the best gorge walks that we have ever done – and close to the hardest.

Circular Pool
We admired the lovely flowers on the few bushes of Acacia Hamersleyensis….


Acacia Hamersleyensis


The climb back to the top was via a stepping-stone arrangement and was a very steep climb.  Along the way we saw a couple of creatures – both of which would fit into the palm of your hand together.
 
 
We were very happy to see Kay and Darryl and our car.

We started with a cold drink, then a coffee, then something stronger. Then casserole for dinner – no wine. Then a portable shower outside the caravan.  Excellent long-drop toilets were around 30 metres away. All the comforts of home – and no phones ringing or TV making noise.

It was a great day - a drive of 230 km.
 
Day 25 - Saturday 15 June – Karijini NP
Surprise, surprise. I was up before dawn to see the sunrise and turn on the heater.  The sky behind me had the beautiful colours that you see more often in the Outback than in the City.



Shirley soon appeared and was happy to have tea & toast in bed – at 7am. It was chilly. Second surprise of the day – neither of us had any aches and pains from our walk yesterday. The solar energies of the sun soon made track-suit weather become shorts weather.

The car, with Shirley, Kay, Darryl and Chris was soon traversing Karijini NP on one of the worst corrugated-gravel roads that could you imagine, to see the most spectacular gorges that you could imagine. Before we hit the bad road we had time to visit the Visitors Centre, where I admired the following sign:



Although the road was terrible the views were excellent.


My photos do not do the scenery justice – but I tried.

First we check out Knox gorge.



Know Gorge (above & below)
 


Then came Joffre gorge.
Joffre gorge (above & below)


Weano gorge was next.


Weano gorge (above & below)




Oxer lookout was windy.


View from Oxer lookout

Then it was time for lunch, before Hancocks Pool lookout.

View from Hancocks Pool lookout

Now came the ice-cream as we caught up with Bev, Wendy, Wrighty and Crippsy.
We drove home the long way (82 km v 41 km) as a bitumen road was preferred to the abovementioned track. Again the scenery was breathtaking.

We rested before I made batches of damper for all four caravans. We used our damper to accompany spaghetti bolognaise – with red wine.  The current score for the trip is as follows:

-          Scones          3
-          Damper         5

It was another great day - a drive of 161 km – an average of 210 km per day for the trip to date.

Day 26 - Sunday 16 June – Karijini NP
The overnight breeze kept the temperature to chilly rather than cold. We had no firm agenda items for the day, so the four ladies (and a couple of the guys) started the day with extra time in bed. We have had no phone or internet reception for 48 hours so we hope that the world is OK and we have not changed our Prime Minister.

The morning was spent doing very little.
After lunch five of us went for a walk along the top of Dales Gorge – similar route to our first day here but no steps down into and out of the gorge. Much easier.

Chris, Darryl, Shirley, Kay, David & 247 Flies

The views were just as good.

Dales gorge from the rim

After a coffee it was time to pack the car and the caravan awning in readiness for departure tomorrow – to Tom Price. It was then time for happy hour, with a very happy mob.

Kelly Gang at Happy Hour

On the way back to the caravan I took my last Karijini sunset photo.


Around 10 pm the  near-full moon was nearly hidden by a cloud “buds”.


 
Day 27 - Monday 17 June –Tom Price
It was a very cold night, but we were prepared, and all was OK. We believe that the cold nights, flies, dust and remoteness is well worth the  sights that we see at sunrise (not Shirley), in and around the gorges, and at sunset. The company is also OK.


 It was after 7 am before I started to make noises that would eventually end Shirley’s slumber.
 
We left Karijini just after 8 and by 9:30 we were at Tom Price.


After setting up camp we drifted in to town for some shopping - and a pie for lunch.  We were amused by the (white) "Little Corella", who was far from white. This little guy seemed to reside near the Brumby bakery and wait for crumbs.

"Little (white) Corella"
We headed back to camp and had to defend ourselves from "friendly" birds looking for crumbs.

 
Later came Happy Hour then a joint dinner in the Camp Kitchen.
Today we travelled 126 km.
 Day 28 - Tuesday 18 June – Hamersley Gorge

Around 9:30 the eight of us (two cars) headed out to Hamersley Gorge - a trip of 71 km. We took a wrong turn and went 90 km out of our way. However we discovered the following sight, in the middle of apparently dry and barren landscape.

Rio Tinto Hay Crops

Rio Tinto Hay Stacks
According to the story, it was a part of the Rio Tinto mining contract that they put something back in to the land. They bought three cattle properties, and with surplus water from mining operations they grow grain crops and produce hay. The cattle properties use the hay and any surplus is sold in the market place. Amazing.

Our long detour also gave us a good look at Hamersley Range.

Hamersley Range
We eventually found our way to Hamersley Gorge and the views were spectacular.




Some of the Gang at  Hamersley Gorge

We had lunch and drove back to Tom Price. I dropped off my passengers, bought some fuel and washed the car of much red dust.

Prado Wheel Before & After
 Soon it was time for happy hour, dinner and relaxation back in the caravan.

 
Day 29 - Wednesday 19 June – Paraburdoo & Beyond
I was up at my normal time and took a photo of the sun shining on the hill behind our caravans.

 
We departed Tom Price about 8am and headed to Paraburdoo, about 80 km away. Just before town we stopped and admired a sculpture called “Resilience”. We had a quick drive around Paraburdoo and headed on.

Resilience” at Paraburdoo
The scenery was beautiful with lots of rolling rocky hills and mountains.  A couple of small kangaroos played “chicken” with us. A few head of cattle did not care about us at all. 

A Load of Bull

We crossed a number of one-lane bridges, that years ago had no sides.

Narrow Bridge (for Jan)

Just after noon we stopped for the day at the "House Creek" 24-hour camp site, among lovely gum trees.




"House Creek" 24-hour camp site


After some time Wrighty cooked his first solo batch of scones – and in the camp oven. They were excellent. He has passed his final exam.


Note the two wrist watches. Why?
 
Guess who got the big one near the middle

The camp fire was used for dinner. It was not needed for heat until late (i.e. 7 pm) as it was a balmy evening.



We drove 292 km for the day.

Day 30 - Thursday 20 June – Coral Bay

When you leave Melbourne and head up Ballarat Road, Coral Bay seems to be a long way away. However we are around 300 km away and it is in our sights.

By recent standards it had been a warm night. There were few road trains and no Iron-ore trains. However I was up at 6 am raring to go. The just-gone-full moon and plentiful stars filled the sky. The leaves of the white gum trees were motionless.
Coral Bay will probably be the most westerly point of Australia that we will see on this trip.

Anyway, we hit the road at 7:30 and headed mainly west.  The view started out majestic and became flat and barren. However we enjoyed the drive.

 
 
We arrived at Coral Bay about 11:30 am and soon had our site prepared. Shirley and Kay disappeared and then reappeared with bags of fresh hot pies for lunch. Yum!

About 90 minutes later Shirley and I had to go for a walk on the beach. It was just as good as it was in 2011.

Coral Bay Beach & Water


Just to the right of the edge of the above photo I took the photo of the fish below – maybe about 700 - 800 mm long. It was about one metre from me.

Coral Bay Resident
Shirley and I decided that we needed an ice-cream, so we did.  It was time to relax.

Happy hour came and went. We had a joint dinner on and around the Kelly BBQ. It was good to sit outside without adding lots of extra clothes. 

We are in Coral Bay after 6192 km over 30 days. That is an average of 206 km per day. The caravan has done around 5100 km.

Coral Bay survives on bore water that is OK for washing of body, dishes and clothes - but not suitable for drinking or using in the caravan. The caravan park had limited supply of "better" water for drinking purposes. 

Our Route to Coral Bay

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This post was last updated around 8:20 am on Friday 21st June 2019

1 comment:

  1. Yippee a narrow bridge. Still gives me nightmares. At least this one had some sides.

    ReplyDelete