Chapter 2 - Nullarbor

I need to apologise to regular readers of my blog. We stopped at three overnight stops on the Nullarbor and have not had internet access or 240v electricity. We now have both so I can provide updates for the last four or so days.  Please read on …………
9am Sunday 2nd June

Day 7 - Tuesday 28 May – Streaky Bay to Fowlers Bay       Go to previous chapter

We drove out of Streaky Bay at 8:20 am and headed towards Ceduna. On the way we had a look at Smoky Bay – without stopping. We met up with Kay and Darryl for a coffee while the four golfers paid their money to play the 1300 km long Nullarbor course.  They headed to the golf course to play the first two holes, as we headed west on to the Nullarbor.

Our next stop was at Penong where we had a look at the biggest windmill in Australia. The golfers played their third hole.

A Cluster of Windmills

We headed on to Fowlers Bay, a popular spot for whales in season.  It is also big on white sandy dunes.



Sand Dunes at Fowlers Bay

We checked in to the small caravan park and later went for a walk. I got another photo of underneath a pier. Shirley and Kay were top side.




Fowlers Bay Jetty

Kay and Shirley either looking for us or trying to work out how far away was the rain

The rain drove us back to camp, but not before we got another photo of the sand dunes and the plentiful supply of seaweed.

Fowlers Bay is not on the state electricity grid and all power at the caravan park is solar. At the caravan park we were unable to use intensive appliances like electric kettles and microwaves.  And that was OK. We had dinner near the camp fire and we were treated to two magnificent dampers by the camp managers. One was “brown sugar and dates” damper, and the other was banana damper.

Darryl tried to secure some squid for dinner, but was out of luck.

Darryl Looking for Squid

The sunset was OK without being brilliant.

We travelled 263 km for the day.

Day 8 - Wednesday 29 May – Fowlers Bay on to the Nullarbor

We departed at 8:30 again and headed west. We were now on what is commonly called the start of the Nullarbor, with small trees and scrubby bushes.

However the real Nullarbor is defined as a “treeless plain” and we were soon in that part of the world.

Our final stop for the day was at the “Head of the Bight” lookout, a popular place for whale spotting. However today was not the day, although we got some photos of the cliffs along the “bight”.

We viewed the cliffs at the “Head of the Bight” and were suitably impressed.

Cliffs along the Great Australian Bight

We free camped just outside the fenced area for the above establishment and proceeded to light two fires, cook two stews (lamb chop stew for tonight and beef stew for tomorrow), and two dampers (one to accompany the stew and one for dessert with honey and cream). We had to cook or eat all fruit and veges before we cross the border into Western Australia tomorrow. So a communal effort was had to supply potatoes, onions, carrots, pumpkin and other various remnants.

Darryl attending to the stews

Four Rigs

We were fortunate to free camp beside a derelict building that provided shelter from some rain and the persistent wind. As the golfers were travelling some time behind us we need a signal to indicate where we had camped. That signal was in the form of a chair that was tied to a white post, with a red towel attached.

Dinner stew and damper was magnificent. We had enough shelter to protect us from the rain. Damper dessert, with honey and cream, was just as good. It was not a late night.

We travelled 204 km for the day.

Day 9 - Thursday 30 May – More Nullarbor

We left the camp around 8:30 and soon after saw a scrawny looking dingo. The golfers golfed and the other two caravans headed west.

We had two stops to see the view and take photos of the great Australian Bight. They were impressive sights.

 


Chris, Shirley, Darryl & Kay

Shirley and I stopped to pick up a Korean “working visa” resident who had run out of petrol around 35 km east of Eucla. We rearranged the car and gave him a ride into Eucla. He was very grateful, and “loovvees” Melbourne.

We met up with Kay and Darryl and had a steak burger and coffee for lunch. They were both very good. After lunch we visited the Old Telegraph Station, which is nearly covered in sand.

Telegraph Station

Some of the plants that were struggling to survive were impressive, for the conditions.

Around that same time the four golfers were playing the 5^th hole (“Dingo’s Den”) of the Nullarbor Links course. The highlight was the sneaky crow who grabbed five of their balls and presumably took them of to the family nest – after the brilliant golfers had hit excellent shots. Five balls gone – thank you very much. Much laughter also ensued – a story to be retold many times.

We found a free camp around 70 km before the Madura Pass. The chair was attached to the white post. The camp site was well off the road and very peaceful. A great campfire was established, the damper was cooked and the stew re-heated. We dined very well – around the fire.

 

We travelled 342 km for the day.

Later that night, in near-absolute darkness the sky became a magic “starry” display of the universe.

Day 10 - Friday 31 May – More Nullarbor

The weird clock-changing procedure as you cross from SA to WA caused lots of confusion as to what time we all rose and got ready to depart. However, it was a safe bet that we were all on the road by 7:30 (Perth time) – with the Kelly van at the rear – although some say it was 8:15 (Eucla time).

Again, the golfers golfed and the other two caravans headed west. It was very chilly and the car heaters were welcome. The wind was gusty but not a hindrance – except when a road train passed.

The severe lack of road kill was good for the wild life. However it meant a severe shortage of wild life and the absence of big birds of prey – an attractive feature of Outback driving.

We stopped at Cocklebiddy and were amused at the sign.  We had cappuccinos.

Wildlife was seldom seen. Onwards we pressed and smiled at the sign that denoted the longest straight road in Australia 146.6 km. 

The view was as follows:

After a while a few trees started to appear.

We checked out the Caiguna blowhole, a rather interesting phenomenon.

 

Around noon we found a marvellous free camp site around 340 km east of Norseman, and 230 km from our destination for tomorrow. The four caravans formed a circle about 350 metres off the highway. Firewood was produced, in readiness for the fire.

We were in the middle of nowhere and had mobile phone and internet access – but no 240 volt electricity.  The obligatory fire was started and became a source of warmth and cooking.

We all based our dinners on meals that were prepared at home and were carried in the freezer. We took a photo of the beautiful red sunset.

 

We travelled 283 km for the day.

Day 11 - Saturday 1 June – Fraser Range Station

It was 2 degrees as I rose and took a photo of the sunrise.

We were on the road by 8:30 and headed west. We stopped at Baladonia for more good coffee, and watched the golfers hit off on the 14^th Nullarbor hole.

The road was constantly straight but often changing.

By soon after 11 am we were booking into Fraser Range Station Caravan Park. Then it was a mad scramble for showers and washing machines. Soon stability returned and we had lunch. We had internet and 240 v power so electronic gadgets were charged and emails were checked.Around 3pm the golfers played the par 3 15^th hole of 141 metres. Wrighty pared it.

David with a 7 iron. The flag is just above his hat.

Bev, Wendy, David & David

We had a quiet happy hour and dinner was held in four different caravans.

We travelled 202 km for the day, 2914 km so far, for an average of 265 km per day.

Day 12 - Sunday 2 June – Fraser Range Station – Shirley’s Birthday

It was a slow start to the day as we were not going anywhere. I cooked bacon & eggs for a birthday breakfast for Shirley. After breakfast I updated about four days of this blog.

Around 10 am we gathered together to celebrate Shirley’s birthday, complete with home made (by Kay) vanilla slices, little chocolate goodies, a candle, etc. It was a lovely morning tea.



Birthday Girl (above & Below)

Bird life was very noisy, maybe wanting some of our morning tea.

David and Wendy then left us for a week to visit some relatives in Perth.

The rest of us then went for a walk to the top of a nearby hill and took the following photo.



Fraser Range Caravan Park

 We had friendly emu around us.

 

We lounged around for the afternoon and headed to the fire-pit area for our second Happy Hour. The first Happy Hour was near our caravans and included French Rose (thanks Jodi) and Aussie beer.



Birthday Happy Hour No 1

Birthday Happy Hour No 2

 

Dean was a 5 year old bubbly boy who was camping in a swag with his mother. He did not have a utensil to cook his marshmallows in the fire, so I made him one from a wire coat hanger in the cupboard. Just another reason to throw my jeans on the floor. Dean was pretty happy with that.

At 5:50 pm we headed to the dining room for our $30 lamb roast. It was superb. The quality and quantity were excellent. None of us were able to attempt the $5 apple crumble and ice-cream.

Birthday Dinner Group

 

Roast Lamb

We had post dinner drinks of milo, tea and coffee in our caravan. Maybe a sign of the times.

Shirley had a great birthday and wants to thanks everyone for the phone calls, voice-mails, messages and cards.

The car did not move today.

Day 13 - Monday 3 June – Fraser Range Station to Kalgoorlie

I was in the shower at 6:40 am and Shirley headed that way at 7am. The sky was clear but the air was chilly. We left camp at 8 am.

The trip to Kalgoorlie was uneventful. We stopped for coffee and fuel at Norseman, and admired the magnificent Salmon Gum trees (Eucalyptus salmonophloia) that stretched around 150 km either side of Norseman.

The Salmon Gum has a salmon/copper like colour and looks great when the sun reflects of the bark.
 

Salmon Gum (Eucalyptus salmonophloia)

We arrived in Kalgoorlie and had camp fully set up by 1 pm.

The Nullarbor is now behind us.

After a quiet happy hour we all dined in our own caravans.

By the time we leave Kalgoorlie we will have spent $370.20 on accommodation, or $24.70 per night. Not bad for 15 nights. Diesel is somewhat more. 

This post is now complete.

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This post was last updated around 7:50 pm on Monday 3rd June 2019